I’ve visited Mt. Agamenticus for years – to hike, walk a trail, to look for hawks. However, the sight that is forever etched into my memory is the superior mirage of Mt. Washington from Mt. A’s summit. It was a frigid, clear winter day. We had parked at the summit and could not believe our eyes. Mt. Washington, which lies just under 80 miles — as the crow flies — looking northwest, looks on most days like a little bump way off in the distance. On this day it appeared as a mammoth floating peak in the air above the horizon, sheathed in snow and seemingly only a few miles distant. This phenomenon is similar to the inferior mirages seen in hot deserts when heat bends light upward. What we saw was a similar effect that worked on an opposite temperature inversion principle when cold air near the surface bends light downwards.
Mt. Agamenticus (Mt. A) in York crowns a singular, treasured locale. It’s the centerpiece of the 10,000-acre namesake Conservation Region that is located within an additional 30,000-acre expanse of conservation land in southern Maine.
This preservation movement serves as a shining example of how like-minded individuals, along with conservation and environmental organizations, raise awareness, and galvanize landowners and the public about the crucial importance of saving and protecting extraordinary landscapes brimming with life.
It’s a campaign that’s required—and continues to require—the concerted efforts of state, local, and federal conservation groups and environmental organizations under the aegis of the Mt. Agamenticus to the Sea Conservation Initiative, mta2c.org.
Formed in 2002, this coalition includes participation from 10 conservation groups including The Nature Conservancy, Maine Coast Heritage Trust, Rachel Carson National Wildlife Refuge, Great Works Regional Land Trust, Wells National Estuarine Research Reserve, and the York Land Trust, as well as several area municipalities.
This celebrated territory, a still-growing network of overlapping, inter-connected habitats, ranks as a phenomenal location the Natural Resources Council of Maine includes on its Land for Maine’s Future (LMF) list and Explore Maine Map.
On clear days, the park preserve at its summit delivers spectacular, 360-degree views, including the Atlantic Ocean (just four miles away) from Ogunquit to Portsmouth, the Isles of Shoals, Mt. Washington and the Presidential Range to the northwest, and views of the southern Maine forest. It is also a favored perch to spot hawks soaring in the air as well as a destination featuring 40 miles of recreational trails enjoyed by hikers, bikers, snowshoers, Nordic skiers, naturalists, birdwatchers, and sightseers.
Mt. A is not a lofty peak at just under 700 feet in elevation, but its natural and recreational attractions are many and varied because of its coastal location. Its proximity to the Atlantic provides a rare mixed-habitat landscape of tidal rivers, wetlands, marshes, and an extraordinary coastal forest full of diverse, natural resources, flora and fauna.
Rare species such as the threatened Blandings turtle, spotted turtle, and the endangered New England cottontail inhabit distinct pitch pine-scrub oak barrens, the state’s only Chestnut oak woodland, along with shagbark hickory, hemlock, white pine, and mountain laurel. Its wetland protects rare dragonflies, moths, and plant species such as wild leek, swamp saxifrage, and chestnut oak.
The area is also known as a significant breeding and feeding ground for various migratory birds, amphibians, and mammals as well as an area with a high concentration of vernal pools. Even its composition is a rarity. Its volcanic/igneous rock formation made it resistant to erosion over millennia, ensuring its existence today as a crucial coastal landmark, especially for seafarers.
Mt. Agamenticus attracted an estimated 50,000 visitors last year. It is open year-round: from 6 AM to 7 PM April 15 to August 31; and from 7 AM to 4 PM September 1 to November 15. Information about hourly fees (typically $2 per hour) and season passes are available on the website. There are no fees from November 16 to April 14, though donations are greatly appreciated.
Trails are accessible from the mountain’s base and summit. The summit gate area at the base of the mountain features a parking lot and restrooms as well as access to the Ring Trail Loop trailhead, where trail maps are available. The Ring Loop trail circles the mountain and every trail from it leads to the summit.
There is more parking at the summit, owned and operated by the Town of York Park and Rec Department. The mountain and two connected hills feature 40 miles of multi-use trails. The Big A trail is accessed at the summit, is one mile long and handicapped (ADA) accessible, featuring gravel and boardwalk pathways.
Visitors on the summit will also find dedicated viewing platforms that provide expansive views of the surrounding 10,000-acre conservation area. There is a large cell phone mast at the top, other antennas and picnic tables. The summit also features a Learning Lodge Education Center where a series of environmental education, events and educational panels take place.
Agamenticus.org details its lauded and extensive conservation and educational programs, and the Friends of Mount Agamenticus (FOMA) impressive stewardship and preservation plans and policies. Real-time summit weather reports, a webcam portal and trails map are also available on the Agamenticus.org website.
For more information, visit Agamenticus.org, 207.361.1102.
This monadnock boasts a storied history tracing its enduring prominence.
The Abenaki tribes gave it the name Agamenticus, which means “the other side of the York River” or “beyond the mountain.” The legend and lore about the burial of the mythic St. Aspeiquid, a Mi’kmaq leader, on the mountains persists, though many regard this as more of a legend than fact. The mount lies within the Passamaquoddy Confederacy that includes the Penobscot, Passamaquoddy, Maliseet, and Mi’kmaq tribes that would have revered it for its spiritual elements and plentiful resources.
In 1614, Captain John Smith explored and charted the Gulf of Maine and noted it as a seafarers’ landmark, then called Snadoun Hill. During World War II a military radar base was established on its summit, and from 1964 to 1974 its north flank was the site of the Big A ski area featuring a lodge, chairlift, and T-bar.
While most of coastal Southern Maine remains a beacon for development, this prized expanse of conservation land is a natural, variegated jewel that will be preserved for the enjoyment of generations to come.
Written by NRCM member Laura Pope who residesin southern Maine
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